CHAPTER 3, OTHER INTERESTS

A. OUTDOOR WORLD, FRIEND OF CONSERVATION & FOUNDING OF THE MAZAMAS

Having crossed the plains in the first years of his life, followed by a robust ranch upbringing in the High Sierras, with time to explore the mountains, L.L. Hawkins was to gain a sense of adventure and enjoyment from outdoor life, vigorously spent, which would remain with him for the remainder of his life. His genes had given him the physical strength and endurance required for full participation. His was the perfect fit to experience what all those do who thrill to a climb, the view of magnificent scenery from the top, or simply the stimulous gained from great exercise. The rewards of nature were a cornucopia of pleasures, as well as a passion for him, whether on trail, in the camp, or on the summit. Added to it, his remarkable skill with horses and trail life, and his ability to deal with any situation, all were essential to the success of his countless outings. And, as seemed especially unique among his comrades, it was fun for him organizing the trip. Sharing the company of others, making them comfortable and happy along the journey, all were the part of L.L. that was the quintessential outdoorsman.

L.L. had attended the University of California for three years before his 1869 climb of the 10,020 ft. high peak just west of the Hawkins family ranch in Alpine Co., Ca.. He was twenty one years old then, and had certainly explored, as a youth, many neighboring peaks and valleys prior to that. And in 1870, given his prior experience, it was natural to organize and lead the University of California students and Professor Joseph Le Conte into the High Sierras, as was well recorded in Le Conte's book, "University Excursion Party." This trip introduced him into the geology and giant sequoias of ancient times. Both Joseph Le Conte and John Muir, who had accompanied them on the trip, were instrumental in expanding L.L.'s horizons. Friendships with these two men begun on this expedition, continuing in the following nine years in California and then afterward when L.L. was asked by Captain J.C. Ainsworth to be his representative in Portland in 1879. Muir, by then, was getting known in the Northwest and had been invited to visit the city to express his conservation views and to lecture on his many travels. "Muir finally came to the Northwest in the summer of 1879." "Among the many people Muir met were those who were or later became active in the region's conservation affairs. Of these, there are five persons who deserve special mention. These are Robert Moran, Judge John Waldo, Lester Leander (L.L.) Hawkins, William Gladstone Steel and Philemon Beecher (P.B.) Van Trump."

"Muir probably reestablished his prior acquaintence with L.L. Hawkins during his stay in Portland as well. Hawkins was 'one of the most colorful personalities in Portland History,'(McCall?) He originally met and camped with Muir as a member of Joseph Le Conte's 1870 trip to the High Sierra. Muir was introduced by Dr. George Chance, a well-known dentist involved in a wide range of civic and scientific activities. Dr. Chance was on the board of the local scientific and industrial group known as the Mechanics Fair. Given Hawkins' friendship with Dr. Chance, the extensive press coverage and his prior camping trip with Muir, one must assume that Hawkins either attended Muir's lectures or visited him while in Portland." ("John Muir and the Pioneer Conservationist of the Pacific Northwest," by Ronald Eber.) There is every indication that L.L. was a main contact in Portland, and that he introduced him to others of like mind on trips around the area and through the talks he was asked to give.

Several later visits were made by Muir. In 1880 another lecture trip brought him to Portland, this time to speak on his recent trip to Alaska. "Muir renewed and expanded those acquaintences during his most extensive trip to the Pacific Northwest. This trip, which took him to Portland, Mount Rainier, Multnomah Falls, the Columbia River Gorge and Crater Lake, allowed for further exploration of the region and its emerging conservation issuses." (Eber) Muir's dramatic appeals for saving the magnificent sequoia forests and the Valley of the Yosemite, were to inspire similar efforts in the Northwest. Five years later William Gladstone Steel visited Crater lake for the first time, encountering Joseph Le Conte, engaging in scientific study under the auspices of the U.S. Geological Survey. "Steel, who later founded the Mazamas, started a petition drive in 1885 to protect the spectacular lake (Crater Lake) from homestead, timber and mining claims. With public support and a resolution from the Oregon Legislature, President Grover Cleveland set aside ten townships around the lake in 1886. This was the beginning of the long campaign that culminated in the creation of Crater Lake National Park in 1902. (Oregon Conifer, Ore. Ch. of the Sierra Club, 1992, pp.1). Steel was to become a major conservationist in the Northwest, as Muir was in Caifornia. It was also the continuance of expanding and inter-locking friendships between Steel, Le Conte, Muir, L.L. Hawkins, Judge John B. Waldo, and others, sharing conservation and mountain climbing interests.

A mountaineering organization for the Pacific Northwest began with the Oregon Alpine Club, founded on Sept. 23, 1887. Its president was William G. Steel, with whom Muir had worked to protect Crater Lake, and a close friend of L.L. Hawkins. By 1893 Steel, in alliance with Judge John Waldo, and others, found major success in having The Cascade Range Forest Reserve protected by Federal legislation, a major accomplishment. However, for a variety of reasons, the club become too broad, including perhaps too wide variety of interests, eventually changed its direction. It was replaced by a more mountain-oriented organization. William Steel was again the driving force, and the Oregon Alpine Club, in drafting a new constitution, rearranged it in March of 1894 to reflect their predominent mountain-climbing interests. Basically, to be a member, one had to ascend a glaciated peak. Thus, on July 19, 1894 the organizing climb on Mt. Hood took place, with 193 (38 of whom were women) climbers (out of 350 who attempted the climb) reaching the summit. L.L. was one of the organizers of the climb, and was among the 105 members remaining on the summit when business matters were attended to, despite the piercing cold and wind. They were to name their new club "The Mazamas," or mountain goat in Spanish. Among the first elected officers were W.G. Steel, President, A.H. Johnson, Vice President, and L.L. Hawkins, Council, and Francis C. Little, Treasurer. The following year, Steel was to remain President, L.L. was to become Treasurer, and his friends Rev. Roland D. Grant, M.W. Gorman, Historian, J. Francis Drake, Council, were to join the other 1895 elected officers. The club's first fiscal year was celebrated by naming its first three honorary members, significantly including three friends of L.L. Hawkins: John Muir, who had successfuly had Yosemite named a national park in 1890 and was first president of the Sierra Club; Professor Thomas Condon, geologist of the University of Oregon; and Professor Joseph Le Conte, by now a nationally known geologist of the University of California. Le Conte had also joined Steel at Crater Lake in 1885, where he was doing scientific study of the lake for the U.S. Geological Survey. L.L., having known Muir since 1879, held a membership in the Sierra Club, no doubt as much in deference to his friend as to encourage communication between the major outdoor, mountain-oriented clubs. Knowledge of the mountains, as well as an advocacy role in conservation, was a common denominator.

PHOTOS: ORGANIZATIONAL CLIMB OF MAZAMAS

GROUP AT TIMBERLINE (L.L. on horse), and SUMMIT PHOTO (L.L. on summit at far right)

In July of 1895 members of the Mazamas, led by James Steel, organized an elaborate experiment where messages would be delivered from mountain top to mountain top and to Portland through what was called a heliograph. Signals, it was proposed, would be sent by reflected light on mirrors from British Columbia, B.C. down to Mexico. L.L. made his own instrument, with two mirrors being 38 by 20 incles. The power of its flash was said to be forty times greater that the regulation heliograph, making it "the largest on record." The instrument was first tested on Portland Heights, "and found to work perfectly." On Mt. Hood a Mazama party, headed by the Langell Bros. of Cloud Cap Inn, as well as Steel, was set up at Barrett's Spurr where flashes of the rising sun would be reflected to the Portland Heliograph. The experiment was set for July 7. On July 8, 1895, the Oregonian was to report: "Colonel L.L. Hawkins, of the Mazamas, succeeded in receiving an answer to a heliographic message from Mt. Hood yesterday, and was much delighted. Many attempts have been made to communicate with parties on Mt. Hood, but this is the first time that a message has been sent and an answer received." "Promptly at 4 o'clock the flash from their heliograph was seen. The question was flashed: 'Are you all well?' and the answer came back, 'All well.' " The remaining messages were unclear, though the flashes were seen. "While the party were waiting for signals from Mt. Hood they carried on a conversation with Thomas Marquam, who was at his father's place on Marquam Hill. As for the full communication between British Columbia and Mexico, weather and smoke prevented its successfull conclusion. According to an account by Frank Branch Riley, who had accompanied L.L. as a youth on Mazama climbs, the signals were only partially successful between Adams and Hood, but those between Jefferson and Rainier saw nothing. "The party on Baker bogged down at the base of the mountain, but released six carrier pigeons that had not reached Portland by the time the party got home."

(Scott, "We Climb High")

There were many climbs, some well recorded , other not. On August 4, 1900 L.L. again climbed Mt. Hood in a party of thirteen. T.T. Geer, the Governor of Oregon, accompanied the group. "They were led by O.C. Yocum, accompanied by his wife, Minnie E. Perley, Colonel S.C. Spencer, Lt. Harry Young, L.L. Hawkins," and others. As a salute to the Governor, a "large rock on the left above the crevasse was named Geer Rock." "Yokum Ridge" was named after O.C. Yokum. (pp. ) Shortly after, the Mazama organized a social "outing," this time to the summit of Council Crest. Its' stated purpose was to honor Mr. and Mrs. W. G. Steel, "whose recent wedding the Mazamas thought should be accentuated by some joyous incident appropriate to the mountain climbers, of whom Mr. Steel is ex-president." Thirty nine members ascended for this occasion. "As the sun went down in a blaze of glory, the little party gathered in mute admiration of the matchless scene. Long after Portland, Oregon City, Vancourver and the pretty farms of the Tualatin, were cast in deep shades of evening, the Mazamas stood drinking in the glorious tints of the old Sol as they kissed the summits of Mount Hood, Rainier, St. Helens, Mount Adams and Jefferson, and when darkness finally covered all, a big bonfire was built, which could be seen for 50 miles. At this blaze juicy mutton chops were broiled, and delicious coffee made, and nothing ever tasted half so good." To add to the occasion and its special location as an ancient tribal gathering place , Judge George addressed the group in Chinook. "Colonel Hawkins, said, on his return from the brief outing, ' the party did nothing about returning to the lower levels of the earth until about 10 o'clock, and they arranged on the way down to make a spin on their wheels to Mount Scott this morning.' "

PHOTO, MAZAMAS FIRST OUTING, 1900

One annual Mazama climb of Hood in 1901 brought Henry Field Reid, head of the department of geological physics at John Hopkins University, Baltimore, and Henry Gannet, chief geographer of the United States Geological Survey, Washington D.C., who was investigating the Mt. Hood forest reserve to find out the amount of timber, its age, and the condition of its trees. Glacial conditions on the mountain was of prime interest to Fielding. The eighty climbers included guests from the Appalachian Club, and ranged from Washington to California to the east coast. The two-day trip to the camp experienced "Sun, clouds, breezes and the spirit of comradie combined to make the drive a delightful one.""The endurance of the young women of the party is surprising. They walk as well as most of the men, and better than some of them, even the hardened Mazamas. Short skirts, heavy boots, broad-brimmed, sun shading hats make the feminine members a pituresque group." After arrival at an elevation three miles below the snow line, "The leaders of the advanced guard began to file into Camp Mazama, established by Will G. Steel and party." "Colonel Hawkins did things for everyone from the moment of his picturesque arrival. He made most of the journey by bicycle. About five minutes from camp he mounted G.W. Berrian's handsome gray horse for the remainder of the trip. When he rode into camp he was greated with great applause." "Three cheers for the hero of Santiago," called out one enthusiast, and they were heartily given. With his helmet, brass trumpet, field glasses strapped on, the Colonel certainly did present a military appearance." "At Government Camp there were fields of soft and feathery Indian squaw pipe, making the whole landscape white. Probably the flora of Mount Hood has never been seen in greater perfection of bloom that just now. Colonel Hawkins called the attention of the party to two superb specimens of silver fir just below the camp. This is a rare tree in Oregon and nowwhere can more perfect specimens be found than there." After "a piping hot dinner," an evening camp fire with guitar music, and talks by the scientific team, they group retired to their tents. The next day, after achieving a successful climb and reaching the summit, "Colonel Hawkins delivered a tribute to Joseph Le Conte, who had died only July 6 in California." (pp.136)

Of the climbers who were friends of L.L. and accompanied him on many occasions, some of their names were ascribed to locations at the top of the mountain. "Steel Cliffs" were at the south end of the summit, named after William G. Steel; "Reid Glacier," named after Professor Henry Fielding Reid, was located to the west of Illumination Rock; "Hawkins Cliff's" (sometimes called Castle Crags) was named after L.L. and located below Crater Rock; "Glisan Glacier," after Rodney L. Glisan, is located northwest on the mountain; and "Eliot Glacier," after Thomas Lamb Eliot, is located northeast of the summit. (pp.290) To L.L., here among his friends, this mountain, and others like it, provided a natural venue. Contemporary newspaper accounts of the climbs attributed to L.L. his skill in organizing for a trip, helping to provide an atmosphere of comraderie, and see to it that all returned safely. These must have been lasting impressions by all who participated. Some sixty years later, I had the good chance to meet and speak with Frank Branch Riley, then still vigorous and highly conversant. Riley was a very young man when he accompanied the Mazamas on their mountain climbs. He remembered L.L. to me with the warmest expressions of friendship and admiration, though, remarkably much of his lifetime had passed.

In 1902 the annual Mazama outing was to Mt. Adams. As The Evening Telegraph of July 29 relayed, "Colonel L.L. Hawkins, who has full charge of the Mazama outing to Mount Adams this year, has long been in the council of the Mazamas and his enthusiasm has done much toward keeping the organization at the head of the mountain-climbing clubs in the United States. This year he attended to every detail of the trip and deprived himself the pleasure of making the ascent solely that he might better look after the welfare of the party. He has climbed Mount Hood several times and is experienced in that work. It is to his credit that the trip this year was an enjoyable one and that no accidents occured."

PHOTO; "PILOT" OF THE MAZAMAS. 1902 But, most important, Mazama efforts sought serious conservation goals. In the same year Steel, after a seventeen year effort, realized his dream of having Crater Lake declared a National Park, Oregon's singular park with such credentials.

Each succeeding year the Mazamas had a special climb. The 1903 climb (July 14-26) was its Tenth Annual Outing, and was recording by the Morning Oregonian, as was their custom. It was to the Three Sisters, where the plan was to mutually climb all three of the mountains in one trip. Along on the climb were M.W. Gorman, Secretary of the Mazamas, Rodney Glisan, E.H. Loomis and E.P. Sheldon. North Sister offered the greatest challenge, "with precipices plunging down several thousand feet." Only Glisan and Loomis "achieved the hiterto unrecorded feat of climbing North Sister. The Middle Sister, called a "snap," occasioned a "fierce electric storm," "enveloping the mountain in dense black clouds." Lighting was found to have riddled the summit with holes, "also a zinc case in which they had left a record of their names." "The party therefore made a hasty retreat, barely allowing its members time to write their names in the record and to be photogrphed." The South sister completed the trip, though Hawkins did not climb this one. " "The party pitched camp about midway between the snow and the timber lines. The camp lasted six nights and five days. Every day except one had a thunder storm, though rain did not visit the camp every time. One of the storms was very severe. Lightning flashed from every direction, and thunder rattled several times a minute for about an hour." Despite all the incliment weather, there was a brief reprieve on their return when they passed Clear Lake. Here, Glisan, Hawkins, Loomis and Sheldon decided on a refreshing swim. Though not officially a part of the record, their cooling skinny dip, in the lake with its banks covered in snow, was recorded for their amusement. Returning to Portland, tanned and with peeling nose, L.L. was interviewed by the Morning Oregonian. "Fine as a fiddle," exclaimed Colonel L.L. Hawkins yesterday. How do I feel? Fine as a fiddle - yes, two fiddles."

PHOTO OF SUMMIT # 25, PHOTO OF SKINNY DIP.

1904 noted other climbs. In preparation for their decision for the summer's major outing, the Mazamas invited the John Burroughs Bird Society and the Oregon Camera Club to a reception in their City Hall quarters. "The Mazamas purpose in inviting these clubs to be their guests last night was to promote the common outing spirit which each club has in its work." The Mazama club rooms was most "artistically decorated, the great profusion of beautiful rugs and red-capped lights give the rooms the appearances of drawing rooms." " A small room fitted up in Japanese fashion accomodated the musicians, Mrs. Palacios and the Missess McBride, Hickey and Clark, who furnished delightfull numbers on the mandolin and guitar." Lantern slides were shown to the assembled on Mt. Shasta, as well as well as those on Mt. Hood. The Shasta slides were so attractive to them that there was no question about the location of their summer climb. Shown also on the clubrooms walls were photographs by the Kiser Broses, those of G. Lombardi, photographs of bird life by H.T. Bohlman, and the Curtis collection from Seattle. These photographers often accompanied the expeditions and their names have remained prominent, largely due to their photograph's influence on the conservation movement. "An hour was spent informally after this programme was finished, during which time dainty ices and cakes were served to the guests by Mrs. John Cran, of the entertainment committee. Colonel Hawkins acted as master of ceremonies and made all feel at ease. Miss Gertrude Metcalf was largely instrumental in perfecting the decorations, which were unusually pretty." This glimpse of 1904 hospitality, enhancing the common effort, reads today especially well. To such groups and their cause we owe so much.

In 1905 the Mazamas, along with the Sierras and Applachians, were to climb the summit of Mt. Tacoma (Mt Rainier), as well as explore and record Nisqually Glacier's movements. On this trip was Joseph L. Le Conte, Jr., son of his friend from 1870, as well as a group of other scientists. A newspaper article was to later state: "Saturday, July 22 -- "Some of the younger campers, admirers of brains, have complained that they can't tell our distinguished men from ordinary individuals -- up here they all look alike. But there is one familiar figure, dear to every heart, whose individuality is not lost even in the midst of grotesque camping clothes, grease paint, talcum powder, mosquito netting, etc. -- Colonel L.l. Hawkins, nature lover of Portland. I pause instinctively as I write his name, waiting for the lusty yell: What's the matter with Hawkins?

He's all right!

"Who's all right?

Hawkins!

Is he right?

More than right!

Who's right?

Hawkins!"

Anne Shannon Monroe, who wrote the article, was effusive in her praise of L.L. "It is emminently fitting that Colonel Hawkins should be here, but especially that his should have been the hand that helped Professor J.N. Le Conte of Berkeley, Cal. to determine the moving speed of the Nisqually glacier, one of the most important accomplishments of this trip. Colonel Hawkins was with J. N. La Conte, Sr., the noted geologist, 35 years ago, when he made his famous experiments on the Sierra mountains in California." Of Hawkins, "He has spent quite a number of years making a collection for a natural history museum, which he has given to the city of Portland. His great desire is to teach human beings a real love, understanding of and sympathy for nature in all her manifestations- to teach people to get away from commercialism into the heart of life. And he is such a big, genial, friendly, kind-hearted and learned old colonel that we all first love him for what he is and take the lessons he gives us as law and gospel." Not withstanding these words of praise for L.L., "this trip firmly established a working relationship between the Sierra Club, the Mazamas and other northwest conservationist. The trip resulted in joint efforts to improve the protection of Mt. Rainier National Park and helped to enlist northwest conservationists in John Muir's final crusade to protect Hetch-Hetchy and the integrity of the national parks everywhere." (Eber, Ronald, "John Muir and the Pioneer Conservationists of the Pacific Northwest.)

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